Sand, Stars & Safari Dreams with Bench Africa

Sand, Stars & Safari Dreams with Bench Africa

Written by Shontee Gillette

Touchdown in Namibia

After a long journey from Australia, we finally landed at Hosea Kutako International Airport (Windhoek), unfortunately my bags didn’t make it and I later found out they were still in Sydney…at least another 2 days before they would arrive in Africa! 

The warm Namibian sun, along with friendly faces from Bench Africa and Ultimate Safaris greeted me. A quick detour to the local shopping mall allowed me to restock and replace personal items needed for the coming days until my bags arrived. And by quick, I mean QUICK, as there was a planned power outage with shops closing within 20 minutes of arriving –only in Africa! 

Our first night at Galton House—a peaceful boutique guesthouse on the edge of Windhoek. I loved the modern-meets-African decor and the wildlife photos on the walls. The afternoon was spent swimming, a local Gin Tasting experience, and getting excited during the safari briefing over dinner. 

Award Winning Desolate Gin Tasting At Galton House

Award Winning Desolate Gin Tasting At Galton House

Into the Namib Desert

Leaving the city behind, we drove southwest through incredible highland scenery before descending into the surreal Namib Desert. We reached Camp Sossus, a hidden gem tucked into a granite outcrop. Our tent was rustic yet comfortable, with semi open-air ensuite bathrooms with hot bucket showers and a star bed on the deck above. The high winds kept us from sleeping outside overnight however an early morning sunrise complete with piping hot tea & coffee (delivered with the biggest smile) more than exceeded our expectations. What a way to start our explorations of the famous dunes of Sossusvlei!

Morning Coffee, Served With A Smile

Morning Coffee, Served With A Smile

Hauntingly Beautiful Deadvlei

After summiting Big Daddy, we made the steep 325m descent into the surreal expanse of Deadvlei. Often described as a photographer’s dream, the scene felt more like a carefully curated art installation than a natural landscape. The stark contrast between the bone-white clay pan, the blackened silhouettes of 600–900-year-old camelthorn trees, and the towering red dunes was nothing short of mesmerizing. 

In the golden hush of early morning, with no sound but the crunch of our footsteps on cracked earth, the desert felt truly otherworldly. To top off an already unforgettable experience, we were lucky enough to catch a rare sighting of the Spotted Hyena darting across the road as we entered Namib-Naukluft National Park. 

Deadvlei National Park

Deadvlei National Park

Crossing Namibia’s Empty Heart

From the desert we drove west to the coast. Passing through the remote desert oasis town of Solitaire, the Tropic of Capricorn, and canyon country. Hour after hour, the road continued through a vast, lifeless expanse. No plants, no animals, and no signs of life, just endless plains of rock and sand, shaped by wind and time. The landscape was so harsh and unchanging, yet stunningly beautiful. Eventually, the barren desert gave way to the cool Atlantic breeze and we arrived into the coastal, German-influenced town of Swakopmund, a striking contrast after so much emptiness.

Our guesthouse, Brigadoon, was cozy with a garden view, perfect for slowing down. We wandered the beachfront, checked out the local market, and feasted on fresh seafood at The Tug.

The Solitary Town Of Solitaire

The solitary town of Solitaire

Adventure in Swakopmund

Our day kicked off with an adrenaline rush as we tore across the dunes on quad bikes, engines roaring, sand flying, and the desert stretching as far as the eye can see. In the afternoon, we traded sand for sea breeze and explored Swakopmund on e-bikes. With a few wobbly starts and a lot of laughs, we cruised past colorful buildings, the Atlantic coastline, and through the charming streets of this coastal town. From dune thrills to laid-back coastal vibes, the day was packed with unforgettable fun. The highlight – riding down a towering, steep dune and ending in a spectacular (and very sandy) tumble — the classic dune stack! Laughter echoed across the dunes as we dusted ourselves off.

Our Bench Africa and Ultimate Safari guides leading us once again to a delicious menu featuring German cuisine at Alstadt Restaurant to finish an exhilarating day.

Oh, and after days of borrowing clothes and re wearing the same outfit my lost bags finally caught up with me! Ultimate Safari’s going absolutely out of their way, having them shipped out to me after heading too deep into the desert to catch us in the days prior.

Quad Biking In Swakopmund

Quad Biking In Swakopmund

Damaraland’s Hidden Wonders

We turned north, heading into yet another breathtaking landscape: Damaraland. Towering red rock formations, desert-adapted plants, and almost no other humans in sight. Onduli Ridge, our lodge, was an architectural dream—open-air, luxurious, and tucked between granite boulders, this property will forever be etched into my memory. The option to sleep under the stars, a magical experience, a serene and unforgettable connection to nature, with clear skies, quiet desert air, and the Milky Way stretching brilliantly overhead. 
The following day we explored ancient rock engravings at Twyfelfontein and went searching for desert elephants along dry riverbeds. Upon evening, we watched the sun set from a private deck with a glass of wine, everyone utterly in awe of the silence and space. 

Onduli Ridge Star Bed

Peaceful sleeps under the stars at Onduli Ridge

Giants of the Dust

It’s hard to imagine anything thriving in Damaraland, yet this arid region is home to one of Africa’s most resilient creatures: the Desert Elephant.

We spent the morning tracking them, following prints and signs along a dry riverbed. Just as the heat began to rise, we spotted them — a small herd with babies in tow, moving silently through the dust, completely at ease in their stark surroundings.

These elephants have adapted to the desert, with longer legs for covering vast distances and the ability to go days without water, they survive where little else does. They dig for underground water, feed on drought-resistant plants, and move lightly through the land to avoid overgrazing. Seeing them up close in such an unforgiving landscape was incredible. A reminder of nature’s resilience, and its quiet brilliance.

Desert Elephants In Damaraland

Desert Elephants In Damaraland

Etosha: Namibia’s Crown Jewel

We arrived at Etosha National Park, and the safari experience kicked into full gear. Our base, Anderssons at Ongava, overlooked a waterhole where animals gathered at dusk. We spent our days tracking wildlife—lions, rhino, giraffe, zebra, elephants, and countless antelope. 

Evenings were spent swapping stories over dinner as we watched the floodlit waterhole buzz with nocturnal visitors. I’ve never felt so close to nature as we watched Black Rhinos and Springbok from the underground hide just meters away.

 

Hide in Etosha National Park

Hide in Etosha National Park

Conservation Up Close

Our final stop was Okonjima Plains Camp, home of the renowned AfriCat Foundation. It’s more than just a lodge—it’s a place of learning, tracking, and appreciation for big cats and conservation efforts. 

We joined a leopard tracking expedition and were lucky enough to spot one lounging on a dirt mound, completely unbothered by our presence. AfriCat’s work is inspiring, they’re not just saving wildlife, they’re teaching people why it matters.

The camp itself was beautiful and laid-back, wildlife viewing from your room, outdoor showers, and a rustic-meets-modern charm that was hard to leave behind. 

Leopard Tracking

Leopard Tracking

Faces of the Desert

Our final drive took us via a remote Himba Village offering a rare glimpse into a culture where cattle, community, and ceremony remain central to life. Despite the pressures of the modern world, the Himba have preserved their customs and still live as they have for centuries. The women, covered in ochre and adorned with intricate handmade jewelry, were striking. Every detail of their appearance carrying meaning, from age to social status.

Despite the modern world creeping closer, the Himba life was simple, it felt grounded and purposeful. Their smiles spoke a thousand words, bridging a gap we couldn’t cross with speech alone.

Himba

Himba

Saying Goodbye – With a Full Heart

The drive back to Windhoek gave me time to reflect on everything I’d experienced. Namibia is like nowhere else. It’s a place where you feel small in the best way possible. Humbled by the silence, awed by the scale, and changed by the wild.

Whether you’re dreaming of your first safari or returning to Africa for a deeper connection, Namibia will steal your heart and Bench Africa will hold your hand in the process.

Camp Sossus Sundowners

Camp Sossus Sundowners

Meet the author

Shontee Gillette

Shontee Gillette

Ask me about:New Zealand, Cruising, South Pacific see profile

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